Excerpted from Norman Van Aken’s Florida Kitchen, by Norman Van Aken. Gainesville: University Press of Florida, September 2017. Reprinted by permission of the University Press of Florida.

Piccalilli Tartar Sauce
To hasten the process, you can skip the homemade mayo for a store-bought version. Makes 4 cups

Put the raw egg yolks in a mixer and beat until pale. This takes a few minutes, so be patient.

Add the olive and canola oils very slowly until it is all incorporated, alternately adding the vinegars a few drops at a time to help balance the emulsification.

When all of the oils and vinegars are well incorporated, remove the bowl from the mixer. Pour the mixture into a bowl and add the Piccalilli Relish and onion. Stir in the lemon juice, mustard, and Tabasco. Stir in the hard-cooked eggs. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Piccalilli Relish
Makes 5 cups

Toss the tomatoes, onion, celery, and bell peppers in a large bowl with the salt. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 4 hours or overnight.

Transfer the vegetables to a strainer and press gently to extract excess juice; discard those now salty juices.

Transfer the vegetables to a 6-quart saucepan and add all the remaining ingredients. Cover, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are very soft, about 30 minutes.

Transfer relish to a bowl and let cool.

Let cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

Hash Cakes
Makes 8 hash cakes

Put the potatoes and boniato in a pot of water to cover them and bring to a simmer. Simmer until just tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

Drain well and put in the refrigerator to chill. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat and add the butter. When it foams, add the onion, scallions, and garlic, stirring to coat, and cook until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the basil, cilantro, and thyme and let cool slightly, then transfer the vegetable and herb mixture to a large bowl and let cool completely.

Mix in the egg yolks, cayenne, and salt and black pepper to taste.

Shred the potatoes and boniato on the large holes of a box grater.

Combine the potatoes and boniato with the egg, vegetable, and herb mixture. Taste for seasoning and adjust if needed.

Add the lobster meat. Put ½ cup of the mash into a ring mold (or form with your hands) to shape. Slide the ring mold off and continue until you have made all the cakes, putting them on a plate. Chill the cakes very well in the refrigerator to allow them to set up.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat and add a little canola oil. Sauté the hash cakes until golden brown and crispy on each side. It helps to start cooking the cakes in the sauté pan in the ring molds (they must be heatproof of course) to keep them formed while they crisp. Take care to turn them gently. You can work in batches if you don’t have eight rings.

Transfer to the oven and bake until cooked through, 5 to 8 minutes.

Serve warm with the Piccalilli Tartar Sauce.