Spice and herb blends are the distinctive flavors of countries, cultures, communities, families, home cooks and chefs. Their aromas can summon up comforting memories of family meals or awaken the palate with bold and inventive combinations.
In his book The Art of Blending, spice master Lior Lev Sercarz of La Boîte sees spices in terms that are highly personal: “Each of my 41 blends represents a moment in my life, a combination of the scents and textures that make up the foundation of who I am today.” He recently launched The Voyager, a collection of spice blends created with chef Eric Ripert, available at Williams-Sonoma.
Last fall, Sercarz joined chef Aaron Brooks of Edge, Steak and Bar for a special dinner that used his blends, including Vadouvan – fenugreek, cumin and onion – to flavor their pakoras made with mussels, cauliflower and chickpea flour. “We do use his blends in stews, crudos, lamb – they’re always fun.” Brooks is excited about his Pepper Berry Pavlova, new on his spring menu. The dried berry, native to Tasmania, adds an aromatic note to the Australian meringue, which includes a guanabana puree and a refreshing young celery and cucumber sorbet.
Spices at Ghee
Here are some of the world’s best-known spice blends to taste, buy or make in your kitchen.
Morocco: Ras El Hanout
Ras el hanout can contain cumin, ginger, black pepper, cinnamon, coriander seeds, cayenne, allspice, cloves, bay leaf, fenugreek and paprika, among other spices. It’s the best-selling spice blend at Aunt Jenn’s Tea and Spice at Yellow Green Farmers Market in Hollywood, says owner Jennifer Fidel.
Ras el hanout (Photo: Aunt Jenn’s Tea and Spice)
“‘Ras el hanout’ roughly translates to “head of shop,” she says. “This blend is basically the best spices that the head shopkeeper would have to offer. And the recipe varies from each spice shop. It’s used a lot in Middle Eastern dishes, such as shakshukah (stewed tomatoes and poached eggs). But the blend is so versatile – it’s great on steaks, lamb chops, and in couscous, rice and chili.”
Aunt Jenn’s Tea and Spice
Yellow Green Farmers Market
Middle East: Za’atar
Like many spice blends, this condiment from the Middle East is filled with variations within countries and cultures. Toasted sesame seeds and salt are combined with dried thyme (which may vary), and sometimes oregano or marjoram. Zaytouna Food, the business set up for Syrian refugee women in South Florida, sells their version of thyme, sumac, black pepper and sesame seeds and a za’atar-dusted chocolate bark.
They’ve also introduced a new seven-spice blend of paprika, pepper, cumin, cloves, coriander seed, cardamom and nutmeg. At the new St. Roch Market, Jaffa by the Spice Detective – where they sell small batch blends of za’atar, plus sumac and turmeric, you can explore spices in all of their Israeli dishes, like za’atar in the labneh yogurt that accompanies the white-roasted turmeric cauliflower.
Jaffa at St. Roch Market Miami
Zaytouna Food
India: Garam Masala
There may be as many variations of this blend of savory Indian spices as there are families in India. Green cardamom, coriander seed, cumin seed, peppercorns, cloves, fennel seed, cinnamon and mace are typical ingredients, with star anise, bay leaves and fenugreek sometimes putting in an appearance.
Wall of spices at Ghee
Spices are toasted before grinding to bring out their flavor before using in curries, stews, meats, vegetables, soups and eggs. Chef Niven Patel of Ghee Indian Kitchen uses his Gujarati garam masala in his pakoras.
Southern France: Herbes de Provence
An aromatic blend of rosemary, thyme and savory, plus basil, oregano, marjoram and even lavender, these dried herbs are typically mixed with olive oil and brushed on poultry, beef or pork. Seasoned with salt and pepper, Herbes de Provence also add a savory seasoning when pressed onto a roast before grilling – toss some of the herbs into the hot coals, too.
China and Taiwan: Chinese Five Spice Powder
The big five here are cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds, star anise and Szechuan pepper, a potent combination that brings sweetness and a little peppery heat to pork and duck, stews and soups. Star anise adds licorice-y warmth, while Szechuan pepper, in the citrus family, delivers a lemon flavor, making this ideal for fatty dishes.
