Three: The Fervor of Flavor
At Norman Van Aken’s new Three at Wynwood Arcade, a contemporary, polished space in the midst of this frenetic artsy district, his New World cuisine embraces Florida’s cultural diversity, foods and fo...
No Name Chinese: Inspired
Unhappy with the state of Chinese food in Miami, a group of friends and business partners opened up this South Miami restaurant just off Sunset Drive. It’s not quite traditional – local produce figures prominently in the menu – but diners will find dim sum and roasted duck here, and preparations are rooted in the classics, say executive chef Pablo Zitzmann.
“We use lots of local ingredients and that’s where the inspiration begins,” he says. “From there we start thinking about everything we tasted and learned in China, and the ball gets rolling. Our sauces and recipes are pretty straightforward and similar to the classics, but we use them in different combinations or preparations. I’m also a big fan of Japanese cuisine in general, so at the restaurant you’ll see a couple Japanese techniques and ingredients.”
Roasted shishito peppers, a familiar item on Asian restaurants, get a salty, sweet and sour treatment with yuzu salt, Florida citrus and a tart peanut and tamarind hoisin (left). “We do the yuzu salt at the restaurant – we simmer fresh yuzu juice and then we add the Maldon sea salt and let it dry on low heat on the pan,” says Zitzmann. Furikake, the Japanese rice seasoning made with nori (seaweed) and housemade togarashi (a seven-spice blend) goes on top of their St. Louis cherry-smoked ribs.
One of the traditional spices that fascinates Zitzmann is the Szechuan peppercorn. “The first time I tasted it I was fascinated, and my face was numb. It was crazy, but it changed my life forever, so we definitely use a lot of Szechuan (green and red) in our kitchen.” They also toast and dehydrate Swank Farm chilies for their kung pao chicken and dehydrate leftover trims of mushrooms and onions to use.
Listed on No Name Chinese’s supplier chalkboard is a nearby source for organic herbs and produce: Pinecrest Elementary School, where their chamomile is dried to make tea at the end of the meal (below). Zitzmann likes their lemon balm in teas, and Thai basil is another favorite. He’s also in love with Aleppo pepper and za’atar: “I have this really sweet spot for Mediterranean and Middle East flavors.”
Inventive mashups make the dessert menu sparkle. Their walnut tart is a Macau-style egg tart served with a Chinese five spice marshmallow, and their steamed toffee cake adds miso caramel and Vietnamese coffee gelato for a pan-Asian melange.
No Name Chinese
nonamechinese.com
South Miami
Lunch: Wed.-Fri., Sun.
Dinner: Wed-Mon.
Three: The Fervor of Flavor
At Norman Van Aken’s new Three at Wynwood Arcade, a contemporary, polished space in the midst of this frenetic artsy...
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