Doing Us Proud: Zak the Baker Nominated for James Beard Award

March 17, 2022

Zak Stern of Zak the Baker Photo: Emma Fishman

Zak Stern was dividing brioche in the pastry department of his Wynwood bakery when his phone blew up with texts. Congratulations were pouring in from friends who learned that the founder of Zak the Baker had just been nominated for Outstanding Baker in the prestigious James Beard Awards.

“It was a special moment. All love and support from the industry in Miami.” Stern says. “Chef Mike Beltran texted me, ‘do it for all us, brother.’Then I went back to dividing another 500 brioche buns with a big old grin on my face and tears in my eyes.”

The road to recognition started humbly in a garage, where he started making his rustic loaves. Stern, who grew up in the suburbs and went to Palmetto and Killian high schools, traveled throughout Europe, learning about farms, cheese and artisan breads. When he returned to South Florida, he baked his sourdough to sell to long lines at the Pinecrest farmers market. He outgrew the garage and moved to a small space in Wynwood, then to a larger corner space half a block away where today he sells bread, pastries, cookies and seasonal specialities, like Hamentaschen and challah. Zak the Baker bread is sold in Whole Foods Markets and served at restaurants in South Florida.

To a community accustomed to soft pale Cuban bread and barely-crusty French loaves, Stern introduced rustic sourdough breads with texture and chew, sturdy slices to support buttery avocado and swirls of ricotta cheese. Many bakers trained with Zak and, inspired by his craft, went on to open their own bakeries, finding their own niche. In the decade since Zak the Baker opened, there’s been a sea change in the quality of baked goods in South Florida.

“One thing I can say is, it’s a lot easier to find a good loaf of bread in Miami than it used to be, and I’m proud to be a part of that success,” he says. He believes this recognition will just make room for more quality bakeries in South Florida. “I look forward to seeing new bakers open and contribute to Miami’s growing food culture.

Stern’s nomination casts a bright but solitary spotlight on a beloved Miami baker. In recent years, local chefs and restaurants have not fared well in the finalist stage of the James Beard Awards. This year, Michael Schwartz, Antonio Bachour, Cafe La Trova, Michael Beltran, Jeremy Ford, the Itamae family of Valerie, Nando and Fernando Chang, Niven Patel and Michael Pirolo, were all named semifinalists list in 2022, but didn’t make the final cut.

“It was disappointing.” says Stern. “We had a great group this year with chefs I really look up to. But I’m certain many of them will push through in the years to come.”

Stern is joined by four other outstanding baker nominees: Maya-Camille Broussard, Justice of the Pies, Chicago; Atsuko Fujimoto, Norimoto Bakery, Portland, Maine; Don Guerra, Barrio Bread, Tucson, Arizona; and Caroline Schweitzer and Lauren Heemstra, Wild Crumb, Bozeman, Montana. Winners will be announced at the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony on Monday, June 13, at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.