Roman Grandinetti and his mother, Regina, opened their first neighborhood sub shop in Manhattan’s Lower East Side. They’ve reproduced it in the lobby of Urbanica The Meridian Hotel, one of those chic, unpretentious hotels springing up lately in residential neighborhoods, in this case South of Fifth. All their sandwiches are named after family members, like Uncle Jimmy, Grandma Lucy and Big Anthony. Regina’s Grocery is not much of a grocery, but a sandwich bar where you can pull up a stool, watch your sandwich being assembled and chat with the person making it.

They use classic Italian ingredients – prosciutto, provolone, tuna from Genova – on rustic baguettes. The “Ricky” is a standout because it’s so simple. Creamy mozzarella, tomato, Regina’s pesto, fresh arugula (the tiny spicy leaves), a drizzle of olive oil and a bit of balsamic. Like good Italian cooking, The Ricky celebrates the goodness of each ingredient with honesty and simplicity.