Makes about 1 quart/1 liter

Honey comes in many flavors and intensities, resulting in subtle to pronounced flavor. Choose your favorite and experiment. Honey replaces the glucose to give this mellifluous ice cream its smooth and creamy texture. A higher than usual proportion of milk to cream works well for this super creamy and dense ice cream.

Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium bowl containing the honey.

In a medium saucepan, with a silicone spatula, stir together the egg yolks, milk, sugar, and salt until well blended.

Heat the mixture on medium-low, stirring constantly, until slightly thicker than heavy cream. When a finger is run across the back of the spatula, it will leave a well-defined track. An instant-read thermometer should read 170° to 180°F/77° to 82°C.

Immediately pour the mixture into the strainer, scraping up the thickened mixture that has settled on the bottom of the pan. Press it through the strainer and scrape any mixture clinging to the underside into the bowl.

Stir in the honey until well blended, then stir in the cream. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 8 hours or until no warmer than 43°F/6°C. (Alternatively, cool in an ice water bath.) Set a covered storage container in the freezer.

Churn the honey custard in a pre-chilled ice cream maker. Transfer the ice cream to the chilled container. Press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface of the ice cream, cover the container, and allow the ice cream to firm in the freezer for at least 4 hours before serving.

STORE Covered storage container: frozen, 3 days

SCOOPS: Chestnut honey, especially the Agrimontana brand from Italy, is one of my favorites. Its intense flavor perfectly balances its sweetness. If using a milder honey, it is advisable to use only 50 grams/¼ cup of sugar.