road trip

Take a Retro Road Trip

By | July 04, 2019
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Vagabond Hotel in MiMo
Vagabond Hotel in MiMo Photo: Vagabond Hotel

There's nothing like a classic vintage motel that’s been renovated and restored for the 21st century, but still preserves its nostalgic character.

Often located in a fun part of town, these gems sport glowing neon signs, stylish furniture and lively public spaces. Over the years, I’ve visited cool motels across the U.S. But nothing beats my home state for an authentic vintage vacay. Miami’s Biscayne Boulevard Historic District and collection of Miami Modern motels showcase these diverse architectural styles, which include Resort MiMo and Subtropical Modernism. Developer and visionary Avra Jain started the ball rolling with The Vagabond; her group has been buying properties, including the Gold Dust Motel. Most recently Motel Blu, this property on the Little River canal is expected to open later this year as Gold Dust Motel by Selina, a hospitality company also involved with the former Tower Hotel in Little Havana. Vintage properties inspire local art, too; they’re the setting for the annual immersive theater experience, Miami Motel Stories, slated for North Beach in late 2019.

The Vagabond Hotel, Miami

thevagabondhotelmiami.com
The 1953 Vagabond on Biscayne Blvd. is an iconic Miami Modern motel with a fabulous neon sign above its circular driveway, and the Coppertone Girl right across the street. The layout is traditional – rooms surrounding a pool, open-air walkways – and the pool bar is modern chic, with tropical cocktails and sultry lounge music. The restaurant and lounge are under renovation, but there’s plenty to explore nearby, including the new Citadel Food Hall, Little Haiti and the Saturday Legion Park farmers market. Book well in advance to snag a space on one of Dr. Paul George’s walking tours.


The Hotel Palms, Atlantic Beach

thehotelpalms.com
Jacksonville’s first boutique motel, the Hotel Palms in Atlantic Beach, started life as a 1947 motor court inn. The vibe is laid-back beach (two blocks away), the floors are polished concrete, and the courtyard is scattered with comfy chairs and an outdoor fireplace for chilly nights. Look for local beers and Show Pigeon Coffee on weekends.

The Hotel Palms
The Hotel Palms – Photo: Ryan Montes

The relaxed decor is the vision of Julie Schwartzenberger, one of the owners and the designer of the motel. “Back in the day, these motels took on the style and personality of their owners,” she says. “It’s been a dream to own a flagship motel and put my stamp on it.” Atlantic Beach originally started as a Henry Flagler town, where he constructed a massive hotel near his train station. The hotel burned down in 1919, but the town survived. In the downtown area, Beaches Town Center features shops, bars and restaurants. Julie recommends the snapper at Doro.

The Postcard Inn, St. Pete Beach

postcardinn.com
This is a stellar example of what to do with a faded Travelodge built in the 50s. The corporate owners redid the motel to reflect the casual beach-loving atmosphere of St. Pete Beach. The U-shaped motel wraps around a courtyard garden, with an oblong pool surrounded by sunny yellow vinyl chaise longues. Inside, there are quirky lamps, surfing pictures, light wood tones and Venetian blinds. The PCI Beach Bar and Snack Shack, a St. Pete Beach favorite, serves frozen blue cocktails and local draft beers. Among the vintage places to explore: the Sunken Gardens, with lush tropical plants, waterfalls and a fabulous flock of flamingos. Pick up some smoked fish spread at Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish restaurant and market, in business since 1951.

The Regency Inn, Sarasota

regencyinnsarasota.com
Lido Beach House

lidobeachhouse.com
Sarasota, a graceful, cultured city that retains a small-town charm, owes much of its storied arts scene to John and Mable Ringling of circus fame. They spent winters here, building Ca’ d’Zan, a Venetian mansion on Sarasota Bay, part of what’s now a museum and cultural arts complex. On Tamiami Trail is The Regency Inn, advertising “old Florida charm” on their sign. This renovated motor court’s exterior features clean 50s lines, while rooms inside are simple and minimalist. Across the John Ringling Causeway is the darling Lido Beach House, three apartments filled with the eclectic collection of 50s furniture of owners Jenny Acheson and Dale Rieke.

Lido Beach House, Sarasota
Lido Beach House, Sarasota – Photo: Jenny Acheson

Polished terrazzo floors, pink-tile bathrooms and the beach a half a block away make this an ideal retro getaway. The New Pass Grill and Bait Shop, around since 1929, is best for a burger and cold brew. Sarasota’s oldest restaurant, the family-owned Alpine Steakhouse was the first place to get a fresh TurDucKen: a whole boneless turkey stuffed with a whole boneless chicken, a whole boneless duck and, finally, their homemade andouille sausage.